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Archive for the ‘Gardening’ Category

FREE EBOOK HOME VEGETABLES GARDENING

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

home vegetable gardeningFormerly it was the custom for gardeners to invest their labors and achievements with a mystery and secrecy which might well have discouraged any amateur from trespassing upon such difficult ground. “Trade secrets” in either flower or vegetable growing were acquired by the apprentice only through practice and observation, and in turn jealously guarded by him until passed on to some younger brother in the profession.

There are more reasons to-day than ever before why the owner of a small place should have his, or her, own vegetable garden. The days of home weaving, home cheese-making, home meat-packing, are gone. With a thousand and one other things that used to be made or done at home, they have left the fireside and followed the factory chimney. These things could be turned over to machinery. The growing of vegetables cannot be so disposed of.

In deciding upon the site for the home vegetable garden it is well to dispose once and for all of the old idea that the garden “patch” must be an ugly spot in the home surroundings. If thoughtfully planned, carefully planted and thoroughly cared for, it may be made a beautiful and harmonious feature of the general scheme, lending a touch of a comfortable home that no shrubs, borders, or flower beds can ever produce.

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FREE EBOOK GROWING BONSAI

Monday, January 18th, 2010

bonsaiBonsai are kept outdoors most of the year, but — from time to time — these miniaturized versions of nature are brought indoors for display. Only certain tropical trees, shrubs, and vines can be continually kept indoors full time as bonsai.

Bonsai, as an art form, stems from ancient oriental culture. It originated in China and was developed by the Japanese. In the 13th century, the Japanese collected and potted wild trees that had been dwarfed by nature. These naturally formed miniatures were the first bonsai.

The formal upright style has classic proportions and is the basis of all bonsai. It is the easiest for a beginner to develop because it requires the least experimentation, avoids the problem of selective pruning, and should almost immediately become a displayable bonsai.

Slanting trees in nature are called “leaners” — trees that have been forced by the wind and gravity into nonvertical growth. The attitude of the slanting style falls between the upright and cascade styles. This style looks best planted in the center of a round or square container.

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FREE EBOOK HOW TO CREATE A GARDEN POND

Friday, January 8th, 2010

createapondA garden pond, with the right planning and stocked with the right kind of aquatic plants and fish, will be a marvellous asset to your garden, attracting a great many wild animals and eventually becoming a miniature nature reserve. It is possible to have a pond which is self sustaining, requiring only the occasional maintenance to keep it in good condition.

A very large pond is often difficult to access and you have to keep in mind where you would put all the water if, for any reason, it had to be emptied and, how would you do it? On the other hand, a very small pond may require constant attention as it may not be large enough to sustain itself.

Ponds do not have to include fish, or even plants, but a pond without one or the other would be pretty boring and become stagnant in a matter of weeks if the water remained still. However, make sure your plants are established before adding fish to the pond as initially the fish want somewhere to hide. Until now they have never been in anything bigger than a fish tank and being transferred into a garden pond must be rather traumatic.

FREE DOWNLOAD EBOOK HOW TO CREATE A GRADEN POND

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FREE EBOOK THE AMERICAN GARDENER

Wednesday, January 6th, 2010

amgardenerThose who have gardens already formed and planted, have, of course, not the situation to choose. But, I am to suppose, that new gardens will, in a country like this, be continually to be formed; and, therefore, it is an essential part of my duty to point out what situations are best, as well with respect to the aspect as to the other circumstances.

The ditch, which had been for ages in the same place, had prevented the roots of the trees from going into the field where the wheat was growing. The ground where the Rutabaga was growing had been well ploughed and manured; and the plants had not been in the ground more than three months; yet, such was the power of the roots of the trees, and so quickly did it operate, that it almost wholly destroyed the Rutabaga that stood within its reach.

Gravel is warm, and it would be very desirable, if you could exchange it for some other early in June; but, since you cannot do this, you must submit to be burnt up in summer, if you have the benefit of a gravelly botoom in the spring.

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FREE EBOOK ONE THOUSAND QUESTIONS IN CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE ANSWERED

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Depth of Soil for Fruit.

Would four feet of good loose soil be enough for lemons?

Four feet of good soil, providing the underlying strata are not charged with alkali, would give you a good growth of lemon trees if moisture was regularly present in about the right quantity, neither too much nor too little, and the temperature conditions were favorable to the success of this tree, which will not stand as much frost as the orange.

Roots for Fruit Trees.

I wish to bud from certain trees that nurseries probably do not carry, as they came from a seedling. Is there more than one variety of myrobalan used, and if so, is one as good as another? If I take sprouts that come up where the roots have been cut, will they make good trees? I have tried a few, now three years old, and the trees are doing nicely so far, but the roots sprout up where cut. I am informed that if I can raise them from slips they will not sprout up from the root. Will apricots and peaches grafted or budded on myrobalan produce fruit as large as they will if grafted on their own stock?

Tree Planting on Coast Sands.

I wish to plant fruit trees on a sandy mesa well protected from winds about a mile from the coast. The soil is a light sandy loam. I intend to dig the holes for the trees this fall, each hole the shape of an inverted cone, about 4 feet deep and 5 feet across, and put a half-load of rotten stable manure in each hole this fall. The winter’s rains would wash a large amount of plant food from this manure into the ground. In March I propose to plant the trees, shoveling the surrounding soil on top of the manure and giving a copious watering to ensure the compact settling of the soil about and below the roots. The roots would be about a foot above the manure.

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